Baking with Nimo: Assyrian “Eight Day” Bread

"Eight day bread"

Last January my mother introduced me to her friend, Nimo, an Assyrian woman who’s managed that rare thing in America: to migrate to the states without losing her cultural food tradition. My mom’s been raving to me about Nimo for years, often sending me photos and scribbles from their cooking sessions, making such things as tabbouleh, lentil dumplings, Turkish bread, and stuffed aubergine. Given my propensity for Middle Eastern cuisine, it was no wonder why I “had to meet this woman”.

Making "eight day bread

Assyria is an ancient territory that dissolved in the mid-seventh century and is now part of several nations including northern Iraq, part of southeast Turkey and northeast Syria. Though Nimo now lives in Chicago, her roots are firmly in her heritage, and this especially applies to her cooking. Nimo bakes from her tradition, using the recipes that her grandmother taught her how to make, rarely measuring anything and often not knowing the English words to describe them, which made follow-up research a tad challenging, but also hugely educational.

One such dish that Nimo taught us is what she called “eight day bread”, a sweet, egg-enriched braided bread that is eaten across the countries of the former Ottoman empire and in Greece and Armenia has specific associations with Easter. In Armenia it’s called “choereg” and in Greece it’s called ”tsoureki” or “lampropsomo”, derived from the Greek words for “Easter” and “bread” and refers to the light Christians believe is given by Christ’s resurrection.

Rolling dough for the sweet bread

There are many varieties of these festive breads, but what gives it its distinctive flavour and aroma is mahleb, an aromatic spice made from the seeds of a type of cherry. When ground to a powder, mahleb produces a flavour that’s much like a combination of bitter almond and cherry. The spice has several associations with Easter, not only in Greece, but also in Cyprus where it’s a used in a special Easter cheese-filled pastry called flaouna.

Mahlab

I’m still trying to navigate the landscape of Nimo’s food stories. Her food crosses several cultural landscapes and her methods are not recipes, but simple truths about cooking ingrained in her brain by tradition and repetition. The worktop must be clean. The ingredients must be good. The cooking must be done with care and respect. And the food must be enjoyed slowly and mindfully.

As to “eight day bread”, “Choereg”, “Tsoureki”, or whatever you wish to call it, I enjoy it best sliced and toasted with butter, during Easter time, or any time of the year.

5.0 from 1 reviews

Baking with Nimo: Assyrian “Eight Day” Bread
 

Ingredients
  • 6 cups flour
  • 1 cup butter, melted
  • 1 cup milk, warmed
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 1½ teaspoons salt
  • 2¼ teaspoons yeast
  • ½ teaspoon mahleb, ground seeds
  • 1 egg yolk
  • sesame seeds or sliced almond, for topping (optional)

Instructions
  1. Dissolve yeast in warm milk, then add the sugar and melted butter.
  2. Beat the eggs eggs and add to the milk mixture, along with salt and ground mahleb.
  3. Add flour gradually, one cup at a time until dough comes away from sides of bowl. Knead 10 minutes until soft, shiny and no longer sticky.
  4. Place dough in oiled bowl. Turn the dough ball in the bowl to coat the outside with oil. Cover the bowl and put in a warm place to rise until doubled.
  5. Divide the dough into two or three balls. Divide each ball into three and roll out with your hands to three long ropes.
  6. Pinch all three ends together and braid loosely. Pinch ends and tuck under.
  7. Cover and allow to rise again until doubled.
  8. Preheat the oven to 400 F / 200 C. Brush the braids with beaten egg and sprinkle with sesame seeds or sliced almonds.
  9. Bake for 20 minutes or until nicely golden brown all over.

 

This post first appeared on Great British Chefs blog.

Intermittent Fasting Takes Over the UK

The Fast Diet

If you live in Britain then you’ve likely heard of the 5:2 diet, aka ‘The Fast Diet’, popularised by Dr. Michael Mosley in the BBC Horizon episode, Eat, Fast and Live Longer. Since the programme first aired in August 2012, thousands of people have latched on to his method of Intermittent Fasting for weight loss. Celebrities like Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall have climbed on board and now there’s a book on the subject, the fast diet, co-authored by Mosley and food and fashion writer Mimi Spencer.

Intermittent fasting is nothing new, and it’s a subject I’ve been interested in for the last few years, ever since I started reading about ‘primal’ and ‘paleo’ diets and how eating as our ancestors ate may have benefits to our overall health (I’ve found Mark Sisson’s work on Mark’s Daily Apple particularly interesting, useful and inspiring). But what’s amazing about Mosley and the Horizon programme is how strongly it’s struck a cord with what seems like the entire nation. I know dozens of people who have been doing the 5:2 diet, and what’s incredible is that they’ve been keeping it up and seeing results for weeks and months.

So what is the 5:2 diet? In case you’ve somehow missed it, the 5:2 diet works like this: two days a week you restrict your calories to 500 per day if you’re female, or 600 per day if you’re male. It doesn’t matter which days you choose to fast or how you partition the calories throughout the day. On non-fast days (“feast days”), you can eat whatever you want.

That’s it.

Perhaps this is what’s sold the nation on 5:2: the method is so simple and easy to follow. You can have your cake (and your beer, chips and chocolate) and eat it, too. It’s not socially restrictive. The only real hard part is not eating much two days a week, which isn’t really as hard as it sounds.

The diet is so simple that it almost seems a shame there’s now an official website and book about it, padding out the story with extra “tips” and “success stories”, and making the diet seem more like, well, a ‘diet’. And what ‘diet’ has ever really worked for anyone? (Seriously, I’d love to know.)

The book has merits, though. The most useful bits are the first few chapters that describe the science behind intermittent fasting and why this crazy 5:2 thing might actually be the way forward, not just for weight loss, but for disease prevention and long life. When we fast, we fool our bodies into thinking we’re in a potential ‘famine’ situation, and our body responds by toughening up. A major player here is growth hormone IGF-1, a hormone that influences cell reproduction, and thus ageing. Fasting causes levels of this hormone to drop, and in response, repair genes to switch on. This is a good thing, and has huge implications for reducing age-related diseases. Fasting also gives our pancreas a rest, which improves insulin sensitivity and thus reduces our risk of diabetes, obesity and heart disease. There is also evidence that fasting improves your mood.

Oh yeah, and you tend to gradually lose weight, too (a natural effect of dramatically restricting your calories twice a week).

At least, this is all true in theory. The problem with the science behind intermittent fasting is that most of it has been done on mice. In reading the book, you get a sense of the hand-waviness behind some of the theories. Dr. Mosley and Ms. Spencer aren’t shy about this, and that is why only a small portion of the book is devoted to ‘science’, and the rest devoted to their own personal experiences with fasting and tips for making it work for you (groan, it becomes a ‘diet’ book).

Intermittent Fasting: The Monica Method

I’ve practising intermittent fasting since December, but I’m loathe to call it “5:2″ because my approach and my motivations are a bit different from most people I know (and I’ve never really liked being part of the “in crowd”). I’m less interested in losing weight than I am in longevity and mental health. I’ve already been through my own “weight loss journey”, and I’m grateful to have succeeded, but it’s left me with certain mental baggage about ‘diets’ and ‘calories’ that I’d rather cast aside. I like that intermittent fasting frees the mind from thinking about food as calories (except on fast days, of course). Also, in the same way that “feast days” allow food to be truly celebrated (as it should be – there should be no such thing as a “guilty pleasure”), fast days too offer a different kind of freedom.

If you’re a foodie like me, then you tend to obsess about food – what’s for dinner? What can I make today with all the ingredients I have? (How lucky are we to live in the modern world?!) And so I find fast days quite liberating: for a good solid chunk of the day, I just don’t have to think about food and I can get on with other things, be it work, writing, cleaning or walking (admittedly, the more active I am on fast days, the easier it is to forget I might be hungry).

I’ve seen many foodies channel their food obsessions towards creating really amazing super low-calorie fast day recipes. But here’s my issue with this: on fast days, I don’t want to worry about food. In fact, I personally find the idea of eating a lot of small pathetic meals throughout the day extraordinarily depressing. So my “fasting” approach is to simply eat nothing all day until about 6pm, at which point I have a “sensible meal”. I don’t typically count the calories, but I don’t go crazy either. I deliberately try to have a light meal, and usually go for soups. A recent favourite is vegetarian pho with julienned carrot and courgette “noodles”, broccoli and tofu. There’s also lots you can do with an egg (about 80 calories), be it hard boiled for a salad nicoise or filled with veggies and turned into a tasty frittata or omelet.

Pho extreme.

My other motivation for fasting this way is the argument that your body gets the most benefit from fasting when you’re actually, well, fasting. But again, the science is patchy on this and, according to Mosley, it appears even if you do snack on a fast day, you still glean most of the ‘benefits’ of fasting.

But that’s just me, and as Dr. Mosley explains in his book, that is the beauty of the 5:2 – you can tailor it to suit your own personality and approach to eating, as long as you stick to the basic rules. The thing to remember is that you can deal with going hungry for a bit. It might seem hard at first, but that’s only because we’re so used to being satiated all the time. Hang tight in the knowledge you can eat whatever you want the next day and just get on with life. I know. We’re foodies. It’s kind of a bummer to miss out on a meal. But it means we get to enjoy the meals we DO eat with more freedom and pure pleasure, and none of that pesky guilt stuff.

A few final observations from my personal experience:

  • Fasting is hard but not as hard as it sounds
  • Sometimes you get hungry, but you just have to get over it, because…
  • Being hungry isn’t the end of the world, and if you’re only fasting for a day, the hunger doesn’t build and build until you explode… it comes in subtle waves and then it passes
  • Missing a meal isn’t a total travesty
  • Fasting is a handy approach to dealing with crappy airline food on long-haul flights
  • Drinking a lot of fluid is very helpful, and in fact necessary; I like tea and sparkling water
  • After an indulgent day or weekend, fasting for a day feels like hitting the “reset button” on your body, mentally and physically
  • Fasting is addictive
  • Fasting is harder when the weather is miserable
  • Fasting is easier when occupied by physical activities like walking, cleaning, shopping and exercising
  • You can work out while you’re fasting – your body won’t crumble to pieces
  • You should go to the doctor before you start fasting and make sure it’s a safe idea, plus get some blood work done to set a baseline so you can measure how fasting effects your physiology (one of the best features of the fast diet book is that it tells you which tests you can have done under the NHS through your GP)

This post first appeared on the Great British Chefs blog.

WordPress Recipe Plugins: Which one’s the best?

One of the things I do for a living is create WordPress websites for people. As much as I love performing feats of technical wizardry, there are some aspects of web development for which plugins are required, particularly when time and budget do not allow for excessive hackery. One such aspect is recipes and formatting them nicely for the web.

I’ve been researching WordPress recipe plugins to use on smarterfitter.com and on client websites and thought some of you might find my findings useful.

Here were the main requirements for the recipe plugins that I tested:

  • They must be Google / SEO friendly, that is, use schema.org and hRecipe microformats so that the recipe gets maximum coverage by search engines (if you don’t know what I’m talking about, read more about Google Recipe Search and learn about rich snippets).
  • Be as painless as possible to use – all plugins have their quirks, but my preferred recipe plugin must encourage me to add recipes, not discourage me by being cumbersome and requiring me to click too many buttons.
  • Include an option to “print” which leads to a nicely formatted, printer-friendly version of the recipe.
  • Nice to haves: allow images in the recipe instructions; come with some really nice pre-built themes; be free.

Here’s what I found:

EasyRecipe - $24.95, free version. I’ve been using the free version of this for a while now on smarterfitter.com. I like it. It’s simple. I click a button in an entry and the form for entering the recipe data is no-nonsense. The built-in template is pretty bare-bones, but I don’t mind, and if you’re good with CSS/HTML you can style it yourself. A major downside is that the free version doesn’t allow you to choose an image to be displayed with Google Search Results. Other things you get if you pay: more templates; the ability to add images and links within a recipe; support for up to a year (lifetime support would have been nice). [Update: I've since paid the $24.95 to upgrade to Easy Recipe Plus, yet further proof of he power of Google.]

Recipe Card - Free. Recipe Card was just released this year from YumPrint and has a lot going for it. The templates are beautiful and come with a whole array of color, font and layout options. Plus it does some wizardry that automatically calculates nutrition information (in Beta). My main complaints are pretty major, though: (1) it requires an account on Yumprint, as if I need yet another subscription to yet another thing that’s going to send me yet more emails I don’t want to read; (2) the plugin includes a very small bit of text at the bottom which states “WordPress Recipe Plugin by Recipe Card” that links to the WordPress Directory and the Recipe Card product page. I really want to love this plugin but those two points are deal breakers for me. I get what YumPrint are trying to do, and indeed this is a great way to grow their website, so I give them credit for that. I just can’t be a part of it!

ZipList - Free. This plugin is fine. It’s very simple, much like EasyRecipe: you enter your list of ingredients in one box, and the instructions in another. The big drawback is this: to include an image, you have to insert the image as a URL, which means leaving the post to upload a picture, and then copying and pasting the URL. That’s too much back and forth for me. It also doesn’t appear to allow you to add images within the post.

GetMeCooking - Free version, or $44.99 for the premium version. I stopped using this when I realised two things: (1) the plugin requires me to add the recipe independently of the blog post (the plugin adds a new menu item in the WordPress admin called “Recipes”); (2) the plugin requires listing ingredients one at a time in an entry form, verses cutting and pasting the list of recipes into one box – who has time for this?

KitchenBug - This plugin is one of the newer entrants to the recipe plugin family. Like Recipe Card, this one tries to do smart stuff with nutritional data, but there’s some major hitches: (1) You have to register an account (which is admittedly painless if you sign in with Facebook), (2) If their database doesn’t “recognize” an ingredient, it complains – you can skip over the complaint but still, it’s one extra thing you don’t need to think about when trying to get your recipe live; (3) You can’t add images within the recipe instructions themselves. The templates are so-so, but they don’t hold a candle to Recipe Card.

There are many more recipe plugins than the ones I’ve listed above but either they haven’t been updated in a long time or I ruled them out after reading their review (Pro Food Blogger did a good round-up last year that helped me rule some out.)

At the end of the day, EasyRecipe wins for me: it does the job in the least annoying way. Its templates may not be as sexy as Recipe Card’s, but I can always sexify them myself using CSS when I have some spare time. And besides, simple is good, right? You can see an example of its no-frills template in this post: Kadhi with Pak Choi.

Which WordPress recipe plugin wins for you? Are there any plugins out there that I’ve overlooked?

Carrot and Courgette “Pasta” with Poached Egg

IMG_8973.JPG

Ok, it’s not pasta. It’s peelings of carrots and courgette given the pasta treatment. I mostly followed this recipe for Zucchini “Pasta”, which is basically a raw mixture of zucchini, tomato, basil, garlic, oil and walnuts. I added carrots, and also cooked the garlic in the olive oil, then added the zucchini and carrots very briefly. I used pine nuts instead of walnuts, and added a poached egg and an avocado (because that seems to be what I do).

Would make again. Next time, I’d like to try the raw version with walnuts.

Recipe: Zucchini “Pasta”

Salsa Macha: The life changer.

Salsa Macha

I almost didn’t make this recipe because it calls for two cups of olive oil. But when all was said and done, I ended up with a “salsa” that has completely blown my mind and changed my world. I’m not exaggerating!

It began with a recent good fortune: a few weeks ago I won a “goody bag” of dried chillies from the Cool Chile Company. I rarely enter competitions, and win them even less, so I was pretty psyched to receive a weighty parcel of dried pasilla, ancho, guajillo and chipotle chillies, and a bonus sack of masa harina.

Chiles from Cool Chile Co

Ever since, my mind’s been reeling over what to do with them. One of my objectives is to use this opportunity to get to know the unique flavours of these chillies. I’m very familiar with chipotles and their wonderful smokiness, but the others are a bit of a mystery to me.

I first made the ancho lentil tacos, where I discovered that anchos (dried poblano peppers) are milder than chipotles, though still a touch smokey, and sweeter. I’ve also made tortilla soup, which includes pastilla chilli, which seems similar to ancho to me, except is possibly milder.

Moving on from these recipes I wanted to take advantage of something that was really all about the chillies, so started hunting for salsa and sauce recipes. Rick Bayless’ salsa macha caught my attention because it was suited for any one or a mix of dried chillies, and also included some interesting ingredients like almonds and sesame. I only noticed the oil quantity after I’d mentally decided to make it. But I’m so glad I pushed on.

Salsa Macha

This isn’t a “salsa” like the kind you find in jars at the grocery star. It doesn’t contain tomatoes or lime or cilantro. This is more like chile pesto, a puree of dried chillies with nuts, seeds, garlic and a little salt, vinegar and Mexican oregano. And the flavour is out of this world.

I used six guajilla chillies and four chipotle chillies, plus some of my homemade apple cider vinegar. The resulting “salsa” has an awesomely sweet and smokey aroma with a flavour to match. There’s only a little bit of vinegar in the recipe, but it’s just enough to make the puree seem almost “fresh”, despite all the oil. The nuts and seeds, which have been fried in the oil, add further depth of flavour and balance out the chillies.

Guajillo and Chipotle Salsa Macha

So it’s good, but life-changing? Well yes, for a vegetarian anyway, who isn’t accustomed to eating foods that are so deep, rich and satisfying. Although I don’t eat meat, I can understand why some meat-eaters would find it difficult to go vegetarian because it’s very difficult to duplicate meat’s, well, meatiness in vegetarian food (meat-eaters, maybe you can explain this phenomenon?).

Guajillo and Chipotle Salsa Macha

Still, eating this salsa made me feel very much like one must feel after eating a good steak. I used the salsa macha in something very simple: a bowl of sautéed onions, potatoes and greens (a bit of egg would have been good here, too). I included some of the salsa in the saute pan, and then added a little more at the end. The flavours were so intense and wonderful that I finished the meal with a weird satisfaction that I’m not really used to.  It had nothing to do with spiciness – in fact, the guajillo and chipotle combo resulted in a pretty mild heat – but pure flavour.

Potatoes and greens con salsa macha. Inspired by @coolchileco @rick_bayless. (A little macha goes a long way.)

I think the phrase “awesome sauce” is appropriate here. I see myself using this all over the place – potato, eggs and tofu come to mind. I can also see adding it to other salsa and sauce recipes to add deeper flavour. Rick has a recipe for Slow-Cooked Fennel where salsa macha is used almost as a baste. He also does lamb chops with salsa macha for any meat eaters who are keen to give this a try. And you should, because it really is a life changer. And I can’t stop opening the jar just to have a whiff.

Salsa Macha

5.0 from 1 reviews

Guajillo and Chipotle Salsa Macha
Author: 
 

Adapted from Rick Bayless’s recipe for Salsa Macha.
Ingredients
  • 2 ounces dried guajillo and chipotle chillies (about 6 guajillos and 4 chipotles
  • 1½ ounces (1/3 cup) almonds
  • 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
  • 2 cups olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • A generous ½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

Instructions
  1. Stem the chiles, then break or cut them open and scrape/brush/let fall out most of the seeds; cut into ¼-inch pieces – you will have about 1 cup.
  2. In a large (4-quart) saucepan, combine the almonds, sesame seeds, garlic and oil. Set over medium-high heat and cook until garlic and sesame seeds are golden, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the chiles. Let cool 5 minutes.
  3. In a small bowl, mix the vinegar with the salt until the salt dissolves, then add it to the pan along with the oregano. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature, pour it into a blender or food processor and pulse until everything is chopped into small pieces. You don’t want a super smooth puree – leave some texture in there.
  4. Pour into a jar and store in the refrigerator until you’re ready to use.

Healthy Vegan Breakfast Salads: eBook for Sale!

HealthyVeganBreakfastSalads-1

Buy it now for just $0.99!

This eBook is a stepping stone on my way to producing The Healthy Vegan Breakfast Book. This first “edition” is all about: Breakfast Salads! It may seem a bit untimely, given the wintry weather we’ve been having, but I’m starting with salads because these are the breakfasts that started it all: colourful bowls, crazy combinations and some unlikely breakfast ingredients like quinoa, arugula, tofu, tempeh and loads of fresh herbs. These breakfasts have always attracted the most attention on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, so I’m riding the wave: it’s Healthy Vegan Breakfasts v1.0!

A few very practical reasons to buy the Healthy Vegan Breakfast Salads eBook:

  • You’ll be an early adopter of the “breakfast salad” craze, which instantly makes you cool
  • It’s about breakfast, but the recipes are suitable for lunch and dinner, too 
  • It’s almost free – the cost is just $0.99, or about £0.66 – so you’re not risking a whole lot
  • The eBook is formatted as a PDF so you can read it on any computer, iPad or smart phone
  • You’ll be supporting a two great causes: (1) my subsistence. (I like many self-employed folk rely on multiple income streams to feed myself and pay the bills) and (2) the development of more healthy vegan books!

There are loads more reasons to buy this eBook on the salesy page, so head over there now and buy it for just $0.99. You’ll get a great book and lots of love from me.

Thanks for all the support, everyone. Roll on Healthy Vegan Breakfasts v2.0!

Marmalade Making with Vivien Lloyd

Vivien Lloyd's Seville Orange Marmalade

Here in the UK we’re in the midst of National Marmalade Week and to get in the spirit, I talked to Vivien Lloyd, author and winner of the World’s Original Marmalade Festival in 2008 and Fortnum and Mason’s Chutney Challenge in 2012. I wrote about this last week on Great British Chefs, and am writing about it again here, because Vivien is simply terrific person, a great writer and hugely generous with her knowledge about making marmalade and preserves. Sharing is how we learn and get better at what we do, and Vivien embraces this virtue in spades. 

 

Vivien wrote the book (quite literally) on making marmalade, jam and chutney – her First Preserves book is a fountain of recipes, tips and beautiful photographs that make you want to but out your preserving pan – don’t we all have one of those? – and get your jam on (or marmalade as the case may be, I’ve personally got my eye on Three Fruit Marmalade with grapefruit, lemon and Seville Oranges).

Vivien Lloyd's Seville Orange Marmalade

So why Marmalade Week right now? Well, making “preserves” is all about preserving the season, and right now, Seville oranges are at their best, which means: it’s marmalade making time. But for preserving newbies like myself, the task is always rife with insecurity: How do I avoid burning the marmalade? How thick/thin should the skin be cut? Any tricks to testing the setting point?  

In response to my questions, Vivien kindly shared a few of her choice tips for making great marmalade, plus her super recipe for Seville Orange Marmalade. Thank you, Vivien!

Marmalade Making Tips from Vivien Llloyd

    • Avoid burning marmalade by warming the sugar in a low oven 120C for 15 mins. Dissolve the sugar slowly, on a low heat and bring the pan to a rolling boil gradually.
    • I slice my peel very thinly as thinner peel releases more pectin into the marmalade than thicker peel. Pectin is a gum like substance found in the walls of the fruit. When pectin is combined with the sugar in the recipe it produces the “gel” in the consistency.
    • To test setting point I prefer to use the “flake test”: dip a large spoon into the pan and scoop out a spoonful of marmalade. Lift the spoon above the pan and turn it horizontally. If the marmalade has reached setting point ( 104.5C/220F) it will drip then hang on the side of the spoon like webbed feet.

Vivien Lloyd's Seville Orange Marmalade

  • Make small batches of marmalade- 2.25kg yield. Smaller batches give the best colour, consistency and flavour. Large batches take longer to boil to setting point. The longer the boil, the darker the colour, the weaker the flavour and often a syrupy consistency.
  • Invest in a large-lidded stainless steel pan with a capacity of 7 litres. Jam pans aren’t suitable. A lid is essential to manage the first stage of cooking. Without a lid, the water in the recipe may be driven off too quickly and the peel remains tough and under cooked.
  • To get an airtight seal on a marmalade I always use traditional jam jars. Re-cycle jars but buy new twist-top lids. I buy mine  from Bottle Company South.
  • Use organic seville oranges if possible. I  use oranges from Ave Maria.
  • Use a balanced recipe, that is, double the amount of sugar to fruit and sufficient water to soften the peel.

Vivien Lloyd's Seville Orange Marmalade

I love to see a foodie embrace the spirit of sharing when it comes to the food they’re interested in, and Vivien Lloyd has been spreading the marmalade joy all over the Internet. Visit her website, find her on Twitter or follow her on Pinterest. She also offers workshops for groups and cookery schools. And of course, there’s her books: Her First Preserves book on making jam, chutney and marmalade is as beautiful as it is useful. If it’s just marmalade you’re after, you can also pick up First Preserves: Marmalades as an ebook for iPad.

Vivien Lloyd's Seville Orange Marmalade

 All images courtesy of Robert Walster of Big Blu Design unless otherwise noted. 

Seville Orange Marmalade
Author: 
 

Makes around 2.25kg/5lb of marmalade.
Ingredients
  • 675g (1lb 8oz) Seville oranges
  • 1 Lemon
  • 1.4kg (3lb) granulated, cane sugar
  • 1.75 litres (3 pints) water

Instructions
  1. Juice the oranges and pour the juice with the water into a large, lidded pan with a capacity of 7 litres. Remove the inner membranes and pips from the oranges. Do not remove the pith from the oranges.
  2. Juice the lemon and add the juice to the pan. Put the orange membranes into a food processor or mini-chopper and chop finely.Put the chopped membranes, and any pips into a 30 cm x 30cm piece of thin cotton muslin. Tie this up with string and add to the pan.Slice the oranges and add the peel to the pan. If possible, leave the pan overnight to allow the fruit to soak.
  3. Next day, bring the lidded pan to boil, turn down the heat and simmer very gently for two hours. The peel should be very tender and the contents of the pan reduced by a third. Remove the muslin bag and squeeze the liquid from the bag back into the pan through a sieve, using a large spoon.Warm the sugar in a low oven.
  4. Add the sugar to the pan and dissolve. Bring the pan to a rolling boil and test for a set after 7 minutes. Leave to cool for 5-10 minutes- a skin should form on the surface. Remove any scum from the surface of the marmalade with a large metal spoon. Gently stir the marmalade to distribute the peel.
  5. Pour the marmalade into clean, warm sterilised jars and cover with new twist top lids. Alternatively, seal the jars with waxed discs and when cold, apply cellophane covers secured with elastic bands. Leave the jars upright and undisturbed to set.

 

Winter Vegetable Breakfast Salad

Image created with Snapseed

I thought I’d start sharing my vegan breakfasts as I kick things up for the Healthy Vegan Breakfast Book. Today’s required some creativity with the veg box because I’m down to the dregs: a few carrots, half a swede (aka rutabaga to my American friends), a few broccoli florets, a head of cauliflower and a few lingering leaves of Batavia lettuce. Actually when I type it out like that it sounds like a lot of food, but I assure you the fridge looked sadly bare!

  • Cooked quinoa (leftovers)
  • Julienned carrot
  • Julienned  swede (my new favourite use for swede?)
  • Red onion
  • Broccoli, diced into small florets
  • Currants soaked in boiling water for ~10 minutes
  • Batavia lettuce
  • Crushed red chilli flakes
  • A pinch of ground cumin
  • Tahini (~ 1 Tbsp) mixed with lemon juice (~ 1/4 lemon) and enough water to make a creamy dressing
  • Salt and pepper

This takes inspiration from American recipes I’ve seen for broccoli raisin salad, and this recipe for raw cauliflower “couscous” that really intrigues me and is the likely fate of the aforementioned cauliflower.

Avocado Tahini Dressing

Creamy Avocado Tahini Dressing

Once again, the elusive avocado threatened to defeat me today. Just one light squeeze and I could tell it was on the far side of ripe – and slicing the avocado open confirmed my suspicions. It was green, but starting to get those unpleasant stringy bits. I had no desire to eat the avocado as is, and yet, it didn’t seem totally useless. And besides, avocados are expensive. Waste not, right?

So I got this idea in my head to turn it into a salad dressing. I started with this cilantro avocado dressing on 101 Cookbooks, subbing lemon for lime, parsley for cilantro and tahini for yogurt. The result was pretty stellar, the perfect splooge for my baked falafel. I think I’ll try the rest with roasted pumpkin, or maybe these crispy cornmeal sweet potato fries.

I reckon this is a good starting point for all kinds of creamy vegan dressings. I’d like to try it with other fresh herbs – basil and chives come to mind. Some jalapeño wouldn’t go amiss, either.

Best of all, I have something I can do with my almost-off avocados. Which reminds me, Katy Salter wrote about her quest for the perfect avocado in the Guardian yesterday, which confirms some of my suspicions: The myth of the ripe and ready range.

Avocado Tahini Dressing
Recipe type: Salad Dressing
Prep time: 
Cook time: 
Total time: 

Serves: 6
 

Ingredients
  • 1 large avocado, ripe
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • ¼ cup parsley
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 2 Tbsp tahini
  • ¾ cup water
  • ½ teaspoon fine grain sea salt

Instructions
  1. Whizz together all of the ingredients in a blender. Taste, and add more lemon, tahini, salt or anything else as you see fit.

Nutrition Information
Calories: 85 Fat: 7.6 Saturated fat: 1.1 Carbohydrates: 4.2 Fiber: 2.8 Protein: 1.6 Cholesterol: 0

 

Baked Falafel

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The traditional way of making falafel involves soaking chickpeas, blending them up with onion, herbs and spices, then deep frying them into crispy balls of perfection. The key point here is that the chickpeas aren’t cooked – if they were, they falafel would fall apart and you’d need flour or breadcrumbs to hold the falafel together. To me, this defeats the purpose, especially if you’re serving the falafel in a pita. I want to fill my pita with beans, not bread (it’s the age-old veggie burger versus bread burger dilemma).

For lack of good falafel in the Cotswolds, I’ve tried making my own falafel the traditional way but it’s always been a disaster, primarily at the deep frying step. I don’t think I can get my oil hot enough on the electric hob (that, or I’m scared). So the falafel just ends up soaking up all the oil and then falling into greasy gross pieces.

I’ve experimented with several baked falafel recipes, all of which involve using cooked chickpeas, or in Leon’s case, chickpea flour. The baked falafel I made with my sister was decent, but not exactly ultimate.

Falafel for breakfast

At last I came across this baked falafel recipe, adapted from The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook, which follows the traditional method of soaking the chickpeas. To get around the fried bit, olive oil is included in the falafel mixture itself, and in the baking tray.


I’ve made these twice now, and while they don’t have quite the same wow-factor as really good deep-fried falafel, they are still pretty damn good and, as it seems, worth making again and again. They also keep well in the freezer which makes them handy for lunches (I re-heat them in the toaster!).

I like to serve mine with a simple tahini sauce made with lemon juice, tahini and enough water to make a drizzle-able dressing. Chilli jam or harissa is nice, too.

The next thing to master are those great pickles you get with falafel in good falafel joints. The best I’ve ever had were the falafel and pickles from  Arabica in Borough Market, though the last time I had them they weren’t quite as good as I remember. (I’ve since been told I must go to Mr. Falafel in Shepherd’s Bush.)

Arabica falafel

Is it pickled turnips I’m after? And I haven’t even touched on the falafel sauce. Tzatziki? Tahini? Hot sauce? All of the above?

Suggestions welcome.

Recipe: Baked Falafel